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'(Fat-)Free at Last!'

POSTCARD FROM NEW YORK CITY

NO WRITER ATTRIBUTED

The season of heavy sweaters, bulky jackets and clumsy footwear is long over and we now find ourselves in tank tops, bathing suits, and of course the indispensable Birkenstocks or Tevas, depending on your affiliation of choice. While the change of climate is met with relief and enthusiasm following the infamous snow storms of this year's winter, we nevertheless mourn the passing of the winter solace. Stripped of our countless layers, the perfect concealer, the nobody-can-see-through-this-baby garb, we are forced to face our exposure and realize that the months of scrutinizing our physical appearance are upon us once again. The winter cover-up has been unwrapped and we are forced to parade around practically naked, if we wish to survive the summer heat. The extra pounds which were no big deal in January will for July and August be open to the public on the beach and by the pool.

Are we that superficial? Do we really care so much about how we look? We certainly do. I need not launch another campaign against Calvin Klein to make the point that thinness is in. Whether we like it or not, in this country, a weight craze is increasingly widespread. While each gender is undoubtedly affected differently, this article does not seek to examine the sexism pervading the issue of weight and physique. Societal chauvinism is inevitable and such a discussion would require at the very least its own editorial. But in the U.S., maintaining a low weight is not merely a social pressure, but a piece of medical advice. Doctors and nutritionists alike emphasize the importance of reducing fat and cholesterol so as to lessen the risk of heart attack, diabetes and other unhealthy conditions. The reality of these findings is that both men and women are caught up in the "fat-free"--or the less grueling "low-fat"--obsession.

We all remember when yellow invaded the Entenmann's box, the badge of fat-freedom. First, it was merely the oatmeal raisin cookies and the chocolate fudge brownie cookies. Now, all sorts of different cakes and pies can be found with the yellow label. Fat-free then spread like an aggressive virus. From cookies to cottage cheese, to yogurt, to cream cheese, sour cream, to mayonnaise. Do they still make the navy-labeled Hellmann's?

I can see it now. Kids will soon ask their parents: "Mommy, what is fettucine alfredo, or quatro formaggio pizzas, or cheese fondue?"

"Oh honey," the parent will respond, "these are very bad foods people used to eat before we all learned how unhealthy and fattening they were."

One must question the happiness, stability and sanity of an individual who still orders these dishes--each being nothing short of a death wish. Given the choice between regular, lite or fat-free cream cheese, do you ever hear anyone answer, "The regular please, my arteries are a bit more unclogged than I normally like them to be."

Of course, I am slightly overstating the case. Many Americans still eat an excessive amount of greasy, fried foods. But the more restaurants include "lite" sections on their menus and the more low-fat and fat-free products become available, the more we grow sensitive to, if not obsessed with this latest fitness trend.

Sure, even the weight-obsessed allow themselves some lax periods where they opt for indulgence over deprivation: holidays, birthdays, vacations. Those of us familiar with this way of life jump at the opportunity to use these occasions as excuses to go crazy--to hell with frozen yogurt, I'm getting ice cream. It is at that point when you realize your efforts to convince yourself that fro yo is really good were unsuccessful. I mean, it's all relative.

But there is a more serious and unfortunate consequence of this most recent fixation--the extinction of people who eat without prior examination. Eating, one of life's greatest activities, is becoming more of a burden than a pleasure. One cannot escape the tendency to read the nutritional content on the back of food packages. One cannot resist asking whether the muffins are regular, low-fat or fat-free. One cannot help but pat a slice of pizza with a napkin. In short, one cannot eat without some efforts at fat reduction, without worrying. The result is that eating fat-free and eating care-free are mutually exclusive.

In addition, this lifestyle of food scrutiny has brought with it some social ramifications. Even those who pride themselves on being indifferent to societal weight pressures are affected by the trend when they mingle with their fat-conscious friends. There is a wedge driven between the fat police and the criminals, the watchers and the fat-blind, the obsessed and the relaxed.

One orders a Coke and the other a diet Coke, one eats regular cream cheese, the other fat-free. What about when there is a lone soul in a large group who orders a CPK pizza with cheese, while the others asked for cheeseless. They might as well wear a hat on their head which says: "Just eat it!" It is increasingly uncomfortable for those who tend not to obsess over weight and fat to continue in their bliss, for surrounding them are growing masses who stare, assess and analyze every bit of food that enters the mouth. How unfortunate that while our food is being liberated of its fat, we as a people are being enslaved by fat-freedom.

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