In Brazilian Portuguese there’s an evocative word sertão, meaning “backlands.” It refers to the Northeastern interior, calling up images of cracked earth and cacti, vaqueros and bandits and vast blue sky. The region was the site of the epic 19th-century War of the Canudos—a rebellion against the government by sertanejos led by a Messianic preacher; it’s been the subject of books ranging from João Guimarães Rosa’s The Devil to Pay in the Backlands to one of Mario Vargas Llosa’s most famous novels; it’s where “life is dusty and wears,” as one poet immortalized it. To the public imagination in cosmopolitan São Paulo or Rio de Janeiro, while the sertão possesses an acknowledged swathe of rich dance and storytelling traditions, it remains primarily a place of poverty and instability—a slightly terrifying land where ghosts wander, leaders rise up full-formed from the ashes of poverty, and in the deep orange twilight anything can happen.
The U.S. media this week was dominated for obvious reasons by events in Libya and Japan, but much was happening south of our nation as well. Obama’s five-day tour of Latin America, which took him to Brazil, Chile, and El Salvador, drew Wednesday to a close. A Wall Street Journal editorial pointed out the “surreal” quality of the situation: while the família Obama was soaking up the sun in shorts and bare legs, the United States was undertaking intensive missile-based intervention in the Middle East. To many newspaper readers here, the entire region from Mexico to Cape Horn can seem at the moment to appear like a sideshow, a flamboyant but untrustworthy neighbor—in a word, a backlands.
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