Il Palio: Sienese Contrade Vie in Historic Horse Race

Two days a year, the medieval city of Siena, set in the heart of Italy travels back a thousand years.

The Palio--an biannual festival culminating with a celebrated horse race--overwhelms this old town in the middle of Tuscany.

The aura, enchantment and excitement of the medieval festivities descends upon the city and is intensified by fervent local rivalry.

More than 30,000 spectators perch on towers, hang off balconies and window sills and pack into the center of Piazza del Campo--Siena's main square--to catch a glimpse of the momentous horse race.

The Palio, held on the second of July and the 16th of August, is not a conventional horse race. It's battle between rival contrade (city district) which dates back to the 11th century.

Ten jockeys race astride horses chosen by a complex system of lottery and rotation which originated in 1721.

Wearing the traditional costumes and insignia of their contrada, they circle the piazza three times, inspired by the cheering crowd.

The winning horse grants his contrada the city's highest honor for the year.

The Palio is the culmination of numerous trial races and celebrations and it commemorates the golden age of the Republic of Siena.

The Sienese wait in anticipation of the event all year. It transforms them from friends and neighbors to ruthless foes. They are no longer citizens of Siena but devoted members of their contrada. Their mission is not only to win, but above all, to prevent any of the other contrade from winning.

And they'll do anything to win. Paying rival con trade to lose is common and jockeys are encouraged to whip their horses--and their opponents'.

The competition and the exhilaration of the race attracts tourists from all over the world.

The Sienese are usually gracious hosts, except during the few days before the Palio.

The hoards of spectators that come from around Italy and Europe are not welcome and are treated like outsiders. The citizens scorn foreigners who intrude upon the most momentous event of their year.

Only those born in Siena, the oldest and truest members of the contrade, truly understand the significance of the Palio. They feel it deeply in their hearts and desperately want to keep it a local affair, reserved only to those for whom it has meaning.