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Have a Brew Christmas

* John Harvard's serves up nostalgia

By Adam A. Sofen, CONTRIBUTING WRITER

For most people, Christmas dinner means ham or turkey with mashed potatoes--relatively ordinary fare.

But more than 100 patrons of John Harvard's Brew House were treated to more unusual holiday dishes last night-grilled buffalo, foie gras pate and Christmas goose.

The menu was part of the restaurant's special "New York Christmas, 1900" dinner, one in a monthly series of daring menus.

"We do it as a chance for the chef and the brew master to take a star turn and express themselves, to be creative," said General Manager Andy Cook.

The menu featured six courses, each accompanied by a specially chosen beer. The chef tried to recreate the flavors of fine restaurants in turn-of-the-century New York, Cook said.

"We were looking for something along the lines of Delmonico's" and the 21 Club, celebrated New york eateries, he said.

"We built a menu around specialty items of bygone years," he said.

Patron James C. Boyce of Boston said he was looking forward to his dinner.

"I've never had buffalo before," he said.

Boyce said he particularly enjoyed the wide variety of offbeat foodstuffs.

"[The meals] are incredible, and even if they're not you can say, 'Well, I tried it,'" he said.

At 33 Dunster St., John Harvard's is frequently patronized by Faculty and staff, including several department holiday parties, Cook said.

"We do lots of Harvard business, day-in and day-out," he said.

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