A Night Out at the Bars of Yesteryear

For some of us, questions about what life will be like at Harvard in 25 years expand far beyond the sobering architecture of the Yard and the structure of the Core. In this legacy-ridden institution, some see greater questions looming as they look toward the future. For instance, where will our children meet their drunken hook-ups 25 years from now? Or, where might my dashing grandchild toast his acceptance to the Fly Club?

There is an old saying that one of the best judges of success is past success. In terms of the trendy world that is Harvard Square, there are some dining establishments that seem to have outlived many of their less-successful competitors. Casablanca, Charlie’s Kitchen and Grendel’s Den have been in business for decades. Patrons at these Cheers-esque restaurant-bars are dressed-down rather than dressed to impress.

Only a small neon orange sign invites patrons into the underground eatery Casablanca (40 Brattle St.), but the ambiance inside is welcoming. Massive murals in warm colors depict scenes from the classic movie. Past the front room full of booths, the back bar area is the heart of the place. Dim lighting, huge wicker chairs, soft music from a jukebox and lush plants provide a romantic and exotic setting. While the restaurant has been in business for 40 years, renovations have made the bar feel up to date without destroying its timeless elegance. Casablanca’s extensive drink list is a wine-lover’s heaven but the dirty martinis are to die for. Salty, toasted almonds serve as classy bar nuts. Everything is reasonably priced: most beers and mixed drinks are $4.

Just around the corner, Charlie’s Kitchen (10 Eliot St.) sends the same message but in a completely different manner. The ground level of this ’50s-style diner is complete with red booths, a checkered floor and several television sets. Upstairs is a darker bar with loud, though not blaring, rock music and a jukebox. Patrons can order food and drinks on both floors. A big lobster tank immediately inside the front door indicates the type of food served here: classic New England pub grub. Any one of the 15 or so brews on tap (most are around $4.50) perfectly complements the greasy beer fries ($2.95). The casual establishment, which has been thriving for over 50 years, is a model no-thrills, no-frills, no-bullshit type of place. At Charlie’s Kitchen, the size and complexity of your tattoos indicate just how cool you are.

The atmosphere of Grendel’s Den (89 Winthrop St.), established in 1971, lies somewhere in between the dreamy feel of Casablanca and the punkish tone of Charlie’s Kitchen. Only a discreet sign indicates the lively character of this underground pub, in the spirit of a typical speakeasy. Brick walls, low lighting, and classic rock make this joint a perfect hangout for friends or couples. The bar has a diverse menu ranging from pizza and fries to falafel and steamed artichokes. During Grendel’s Happy Hour (5-7:30 p.m. every day and 9-11:30 p.m. Sunday through Thursday) all dishes are $3. The nachos—smothered in sour cream, guacamole and cheese—are heavenly when washed down with a Paulaner Hefeweizen, a light German beer served with a lemon wedge in a gigantic glass. On a blustery day, a mug of hot cider hits the spot, especially when enhanced with spiced rum.

And if these old-timers don’t satisfy your taste for the drink (and food), here are some other solidly established Boston staples:

The Plough and Stars. 912 Mass. Ave., Cambridge. Daily 12 p.m.-1 a.m. The Plough and Stars is an easily overlooked hole-in-the-wall near Central Square, with a big Irish clientele. It’s a mark of high distinction in some quarters if you can stride into the Plough on a Saturday night and be greeted by name by the regulars.

Casa Mexico. 75 Winthrop St., Cambridge. Dinner: Sunday-Thursday 6-10 p.m., Friday 6-11 p.m., Saturday 5:30-11 p.m. For one former FM executive a great spot to pick up hot Venezuelan men, Casa Mexico reigns as Harvard Square’s most authentic take on south of the border. This basement nook is perfect for a first date, but be warned—fellow patrons will hear your every word.

Pinocchio’s Pizza and Subs. 74 Winthrop St. Monday-Friday 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Saturday and Sunday 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Pinocchio’s, known affectionately as Noch’s by many Harvard regulars, offers a wide array of pizza dishes that please the most picky of palates. The actual dining space is not much larger than many common rooms, but patrons of this late-night spot are not usually coming in for a sit-down meal. The thick-crusted Sicilian slices ($2.20) are the most commonly requested items, but tasty Italian sandwiches and salads are also available.