Almost Famous

Ben and Casey, Paris and Nikki, Jessica and Ashley.

For every blinged-out star, there’s an obscure sibling lurking in the wings. But while Ashley may not be able to carry her own stadium concert, sister restaurants do not suffer the same fate. Often, proximity to greatness makes for gastronomic rewards.

Witness the triumverate of successful restaurants that have sprung from the fabulously popular Inman eatery, Dali: Tapeo, Cuchi-Cuchi, and Solea borrow the well-tested formula of reliably good tapas, lethal sangria, and a sequins-and-boas atmosphere. However, in the time it takes to get to the top of the wait list at Dali, you can easily be halfway through your Spanish feast at Tapeo.

Likewise, many of Boston’s most exclusive restaurants can be experienced for a fraction of the hassle—and the bill.

Can’t afford Radius? Try Via Matta.

Name: Via Matta

Address: 79 Park Plaza, Boston, MA 02116

Telephone: (617) 422-0008

Hours: Lunch M-F 11:30 a.m. – 2:30 p.m

Dinner M-Th 5:30 p.m. – 10 p.m.; Fri and Sat 5:30 p.m. – 11 p.m.

Enoteca/Caffe and Outdoor patio serve food until 1 a.m.

Born of the owner/chef duo behind the much more expensive—and more formal—Radius restaurant, Via Matta has the same refined, minimalist feel. The dining room has long windows facing the Boston Park Plaza on one side, and each table is set with simple white tablecloths.

The essence is in the details: each napkin has a sprig of rosemary tucked within its folds, and the salt and pepper are served in small wooden bowls.

When weather permits, Via Matta opens its outdoor patio, a small urban oasis shielded from the street by a ring of trees. The restaurant attracts a varied crowd from the downtown and South End area, according to manager Chrystyna Kassaraba. “Everyone from Boston VIPs to owners of club to just people who were in the area,” she says.

In the summer, the outside patio becomes a destination in its own right. Kassaraba says, “You can just sit at a table until two in the morning – get a bottle of wine, a pizza—it’s fun.”

Inside, the food is both fun and serious. Every meal begins with a basket of addictive Iggy’s bread, sliced from massive loaves at a large cutting board in between the tables. Dipped in a plate of first-rate olive oil, it could easily turn into a meal. But that would deny the pleasure of the restaurant’s antipasto plate ($14), with thin slivers of cured meat, chunks of aged Parmesan, and one decadent, silkily rich chicken liver crostini.

All of the restaurant’s pastas are made on the premises, and that care shows in dishes like the Tagliatelle alla Bolognese ($19), soft ribbons of pasta thickly coated with a rich meat sauce. The Spaghetti Aglio e Olio con pomodoro ($16) shows that good olive oil and tomatoes go a long way.

During lunch, try Via Matta’s wonderful grilled Paninos—the Prosciutto, robiola, tomato, and truffle ($14) is the perfect combination of crisp bread, seductive cheese, and achingly ripe tomatoes. Accompanied by Tuscan fries—crisp half-moons of potatoes dusted with rosemary and salt—the sandwich makes an ideal midday meal.

For dessert, Via Matta lightens up the ubiquitous Tiramisu ($9) with delicious results. The highlight, though, was something the restaurant calls “Marscarp-Oreos,” a small bowl of chocolate shortbread cookies accompanied by a dish of sweet mascarpone cheese.

Add the restaurant’s signature cocktail, the Basil Lime Gimlet ($9), to any meal for an unexpectedly smooth combination of tart lime and sweet basil. The wine list, which is limited to Italian wines and arranged by region, also offers many wines by the glass and a number of moderately priced bottles.

Can’t afford No. 9 Park? Try The Butcher Shop.

Name: The Butcher Shop

Address: 552 Tremont St, Boston, MA 02118

Telephone: (617) 423-4800

Hours: Butcher available M-Sun 11 a.m. until 5 p.m.

Wine Bar open M-Sun 11 a.m. until 12 a.m.

The nine-course tasting menu at Barbara Lynch’s acclaimed No. 9 Park can run upwards of $200 if you include the suggested wine pairings. However, there is a more affordable way to experience Lynch’s thoughtfully conceived cuisine. Her South End outpost, The Butcher Shop, is a concentration of the best of Europe’s culinary traditions: superior wines, fine cured meats, and simple, seasonal ingredients. Unlike No. 9 Park, there are no reservations, and patrons can feel comfortable eating as little or as much as they want.

The actual dining area is very small—just two long counters and a few small tables at the back. There, a large glass refrigerator displays the shop’s spoils with no small amount of pride: house-made pates, foie gras, and a wide variety of cured meats. On a large wooden table, the restaurant displays other gourmet goods: jars of their sauces and accompaniments, including tomato confit and native cranberry confit, and a special array of Jean-Marc Montegottero virgin oils, pure distillations of pistachio, sesame, and other oils ($28 a bottle).

During the day, it is possible to linger over a long lunch, watching the Tremont Street traffic through the floor-to-ceiling windows. A steady stream of regulars comes to examine the week’s offerings, usually leaving with several sandwiches worth of spoils.

The Hot Dog a la Maison ($12) is the adult version of the quintessential children’s meal. The bratwurst is served on a grilled baguette and topped with melted cheese. Eating it is a messy task, but a delicious one—the “hot dog” is juicy and flavorful, especially with a little whole-grain mustard on top. Rosemary potato chips are large and crispy, although the rosemary is mostly overpowered by the salt and oil.

The restaurant offers a number of spring specials, including the Fava Bean Salad ($14). The vibrant green of the fava beans brightens up even the dullest day, and the lemon vinaigrette adds just the right note of tartness to the greens.

The restaurant shines with dishes such as the Antipasti Della Casa ($16) and the Assiette of Charcuterie ($18). The antipasti includes favorites like sweet and spicy sopressata, wine-cured prosciutto, and aged Parmesan, as well as less common additions like caponata, an Italian dish made with eggplant and raisins, and caper berries, which are eaten like olives. The charcuterie changes daily, according to the chef’s whim. Both are large enough to be shared by three or four people.

For dessert, the pot de crème is a thick, eggy custard with just a trace of espresso. Served with flaky, sugar-dusted palmiers, this is a comforting, undemanding dish. It is perfect with one of the restaurant’s cappuccinos or espresso drinks.

At night, The Butcher Shop Wine Bar attracts a well-heeled crowd with its thoughtful wine list and quality small plates. The long counters make the shop a poor choice for large groups, but perfect for solo diners or couples. Many wines are offered by the glass (between $7 and $12), including the daily red and white picks.