Author Profile: Devra First on Soup, Community, and the Sharing of Culture and Stories

Devra First, a current restaurant critic and food writer for The Boston Globe, always knew she wanted to be a writer and has always been fascinated by food.

First has worked at The Globe as a writer and editor since 2000 and has been awarded numerous accolades from the Society for Features Journalism and the Association of Food Journalists. However, developing this career has been no easy feat.

Food journalism wasn’t a popular discipline when First started out. With the internet still developing, First described that there were also no food blogs. So, First had to shape her writing based on her own values and views on food.

“I grew up in a household where food was very front and center, and so I was always interested in it, and I thought it would be an interesting thing to write about because, in many ways, food is a useful lens to look at culture in general,” said First in an interview with The Harvard Crimson.

For First, food and restaurants represent more than just locations on a map. As dining establishments become integral to neighborhoods, they form long-lasting relationships with customers and impart impact far beyond the food being served.

“When we live together in the same geographical area and eat each other’s food, it is a way to get to know people who may come from a different place and form relationships and get to know a little bit about other people’s culture,” said First.

This openness to new flavors and cuisines has also affected the Boston food scene, and there has been a change in many people’s notion of what constitutes fine dining. The food culture today is shaped by a more comprehensive and enriched view of the world.

“I think over time, people — Boston consumers — have gotten very much more cosmopolitan in what they expect to find on the table,” First said.

Besides the new mix of cultures and expectations, First also notices how the Covid-19 pandemic impacted the restaurant landscape overall. The pandemic’s pause to in-person service caused restaurant owners to re-evaluate old models and come up with new, innovative forms of service.

“This was a forced pause and obviously really detrimental in so many ways.”

With the gradual reopening of dining establishments across the country, there has been an added appreciation, from both diners and restaurant owners, for the sense of community that dining out provides.

“That is a real value — of coming together, gathering, having a feeling of community, and having a feeling of being cared for, like the true nature of hospitality. I think we’ve come back to that even more now than ever,” said First.

Besides the pandemic, climate change is another major factor that has caused an evolution of food and consumption patterns. For First, this shift is something that dining establishments won’t be able to ignore. Rather, restaurants will increasingly need to reflect on their practices in relation to the climate. As environmental changes will affect what we eat, First looks towards restaurants as major forces of adaptation.

“Restaurants have always been better than anyone at reducing food waste because you just have to, out of necessity for costs.”

As for her work, First is currently focusing on one specific dish — soup. The author’s latest project for The Globe has been a six-week newsletter, titled “Winter Soup Club.” Each week features a new soup recipe and additional preparation tips, side dish inspiration, and even other lifestyle suggestions for reading, watching, and listening.

“This started as sort of an audience engagement project as much as anything because it's surprising how much everyone loves soup, and I think, you know, everybody just has really like nostalgic, cozy feelings about soup,” said First.

The success of this project has been surprising in many ways, and many people have reached out to contribute their own stories, memories, and family recipes.

“We thought this was a really good idea... But I think we actually even underestimated how much everybody loves soup because we’ve gotten so much response on this newsletter — like so much response.

“I think what has been a highlight and an honor and privilege through doing this work is the access that it gives me to people’s stories and to different communities,” First said.

Part of her work has also helped First become acquainted with cultures previously unknown to her, allowing her to get to know people on a deeper and more personal level.

A driving force in First’s work, the sharing of stories is one that continuously keeps her passion alive. Through her writing, First has explored food in relation to her immediate community, putting the spotlight on community members’ varied experiences and journeys.

“Just being able to call people up and say, ‘Hey, you know, tell me about yourself, and where you come from, and your food, and what it means to you, and how you make it,’ is such a pleasure and a privilege, always.”

—Staff writer Erlisa Demneri can be reached at erlisa.demneri@thecrimson.com.