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Geppetto Review: A Beautifully Casual Dining Experience

Chef Gilson and Chef Mercury — 4 Stars

As for the food, the rigatoni bolognese stands out as a particularly delectable option on the menu.
As for the food, the rigatoni bolognese stands out as a particularly delectable option on the menu. By Courtesy of Gabrielle A. David
By Gabrielle A. David, Crimson Staff Writer

Right outside of the Lechmere Station in Cambridge Crossing lies Geppetto, a quaint, Italian-inspired eatery. This dinner-only establishment opened in 2021 and offers high quality Italian food with innovative techniques. Headed by two chefs — Chef Will Gilson covering the cuisine and Chef Brian Mercury as the pastry chef — Geppetto is sure to offer patrons something to satisfy their cravings

Staff eagerly await guests’ arrival and swiftly seat them. The colors of the walls are a deep teal green, the seating is a light pink leather, and the establishment is accented with a light golden wood grain. This particular color scheme has the potential to be disastrous, but Geppetto does just the opposite. With vases and frames bursting with faux foliage that accents the empty spaces between the booths, the restaurant’s visual weight is as cohesive as it is stunning.

The artificial lighting is composed of mostly overhead paper lamps, laced with the occasional small, gilded lamp on the square black and white marble tabletops. Floor-to-ceiling windows line two of the walls, letting a plethora of late afternoon light spill into the space. Light, upbeat jazz plays in the background over the murmur of patrons. The atmosphere is warm and inviting, but not too casual — the kind of place to take anyone, from friends to colleagues to dates.

The evening starts off with a glass bottle of water, left at the table for patrons to refill the empty glasses as they please. As for the food, the rigatoni bolognese stands out as a particularly delectable option on the menu. Within 15 minutes of ordering, the entree arrived at the table, the plate hot to the touch. The dish is doused with a healthy sprinkling of freshly grated Parmesan and a rosemary garnish. This dish is enough to satisfy the eyes, and the taste meets expectations. The pork is tender and the sauce well-rounded. Even more, the underlying notes of fennel are complemented well by the soffritto. However, the sauce is a bit greasy — as is partially expected from a bolognese — and it loses some of its spiced flavor to the fat of the pork. The dish’s overall texture is saved by the noodles, which are cooked to al dente perfection. The size of the dish itself is enough to satiate, leaving some room for dessert — and when the waitstaff offer the dessert menu post entree, take it.

Geppetto’s dessert menu offers traditional Italian options like gelato, espresso, and affogato (espresso with gelato) with a bit of a twist: an entire dessert drink selection on the other side. These liquors range in tastes from balanced to bittersweet and include two dessert wines. The averna — a caramel liquor infused with Dr. Pepper, orange, and spice — is a bit strong, as the liquor overpowers some of the intended flavor profiles. Overall, its sweetness, hint of spice, and subtle complexity can only be explained by the Dr. Pepper.

One of the flavor options is quite unique: elderflower. This base flavor, colored a beautiful pale purple, is topped with a cubed red-orange candied rhubarb.
One of the flavor options is quite unique: elderflower. This base flavor, colored a beautiful pale purple, is topped with a cubed red-orange candied rhubarb. By Courtesy of Gabrielle A. David

A cool, refreshing sorbetto — a fruit-based dessert similar to ice cream without the dairy — completes the meal. One of the flavor options is quite unique: elderflower. This base flavor, colored a beautiful pale purple, is topped with a cubed red-orange candied rhubarb. The flavor is subtle and flowery, complemented by the sweet and sour rhubarb. Its texture is smooth and creamy, causing it to melt immediately in the mouth. It is a small serving for the price, but the flavor combo is unique and satisfying, and therefore worth a try.

Geppetto offers a dining experience comfortable for any patron. The space remains intimate and inviting despite its large size, and the ambiance reflects that of a nice home to which one is invited over for a casual sit-down event. Not to mention, the staff are on top of it all — quick, efficient, and incredibly kind.

The restaurant’s Northern Italian influence is clear throughout the menu, coupling nicely with a local New England flare. The flavors mingle well throughout the entrees, despite minor imperfections. Whether you’re looking for a new place for a date night or want to escape to somewhere unique with welcoming air, Geppetto is the place to go.

—Staff writer Gabrielle A. David can be reached at gabrielle.david@thecrimson.com.

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