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RUKA Restobar Review: A Nifty Intro to the Nikkei Experience, but Missing a Pinch of Polish

Chef Lester Herrera — 3.5 Stars


RUKA Restobar serves Peruvian-Japanese fusion near Boston Common.
RUKA Restobar serves Peruvian-Japanese fusion near Boston Common. | By Courtesy of Alessandro M. M. Drake
By Alessandro M. M. Drake, Crimson Staff Writer

RUKA’s facade provides a border between two worlds; one of the unforgiving wind of Boston’s streets and one of chic fusion dining. The dinner experience is enveloped in avant-garde frescoes and seasoned with craft cocktails, but crucially misses a few bits of polish here and there.

RUKA Restobar, sitting sleekly on Washington Street in Boston, describes itself as “Nikkei” and “Chifa,” terms which indicate the restaurant’s Peruvian-Japanese fusion inspiration.

The ambience inside perfectly captures a modern-leaning mood — clearly RUKA is trying to attract a young crowd, with a playlist consisting of house music that hits just right for drowning out nearby conversations yet still allows one’s whole table to be heard. The decor is similar, with grandiose depictions of Peruvian scenes lining the walls, in keeping with the intricately decorated bar, complete with statuettes evoking Incan imagery.

Ostensibly a tapas-style restaurant, RUKA’s menu is simple, dividing their small plates into sections of “Makimono,” “Chilled,” “Wok,” and “Hot.”

Servers recommended two plates (each an average of about $22) per person, which is probably more than most customers actually need — six plates for four people is a more appropriate ratio.

The dishes all come out at once in an almost overwhelming fashion, with no clear distinction delineating specific dishes for different stages. On the plus side, this means the whole meal is an experience of jumping from dish to dish and back again, which lends a certain feeling of getting lost in the cuisine.

And what a unique cuisine it is: The ceviche — a recommendation from the server and a fairly obvious order given the raw fish connection between the restaurant’s emphasized cuisines — is a fitting start. The sweet potato chips add a pop of color, crunch, and creativity to what is otherwise a slightly understated dish and, together with the fish, provide a powerful combination of consistencies — a prime example of why Peruvian-Japanese fusion is so promising.

The collection of cocktails is another high point of the menu. The seasonal Pisco Sour, noted on the menu as a RUKA house recipe, is a subtle example of how simple is better. The bright red drink garnished with a singular slice of lime fits perfectly into its role as an accompaniment to the main meal; the strong citrus notes and sour base give an edge to the raw fish.

The Aji Alegre is even better, with a brilliantly bold jalapeno base just toeing the line of becoming overpowering, but completely pulling it off. In fact, the Aji Alegre might be the single most impressive item on the menu, with its unapologetic creativity encapsulating everything good about RUKA.

The Hawaiian Crunch — another server recommendation and one of the most exciting items on the menu — unfortunately falls well-short of the mark. The shrimp tempura centering the sushi roll provides a nice crunch, and the tuna on top is a pleasant texture, but the cast of flavors making up the roll simply does not live up to its potential. Not only is it among the least interesting dishes of the menu, but the accompanying soy sauce arrives in bags that are impossible to open, and the chopsticks are of the simple wooden break-apart variety. Although small details, these shortcomings detract from a meal on which one spends over $70.

Tako Meshi — a fried rice dish based on charred octopus — brings the average quality back up, with the aroma of smokiness surrounding the tender octopus in a delicious warm hug. It sits well on its base of rice and only lacks the smallest tidbit preventing it from being a true flavor explosion.

A final highlight are the Spicy Salmon Fritas, an incredibly creamy bit of fish on a fried base and topped with jalapeno. The salmon showcases the quality of RUKA’s fish, while again missing a true finishing touch.

The community, fun mood, and creativity found at RUKA are a wonderful escape from a cold, windy Boston night. And it certainly has its highs, with a crafty selection of cocktails complimenting some dishes with real strengths.

There are, however, some moments here and there of missing polish — the kind that certainly don’t ruin a meal, but would make one consider trying a few other places near Downtown Crossing before booking a return. The outlook is still good for a restaurant as in-touch as RUKA, though, and diners should certainly give it a try — if only to experience the fascinating culinary combinations it offers.

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—Staff writer Alessandro M. M. Drake can be reached at [email protected].

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