Tonino Review: Italian Home Cooking So Good, Nonna Will Be Jealous
Chef Luke Fetbroth — 5 Stars
Anyone who keeps tabs on the Boston-area culinary scene has likely heard that Tonino is good. This report is wrong — Tonino is not just good. It’s outstanding.
The restaurant has gained a reputation for being Boston’s hardest reservation to snag. With less than thirty seats up for grabs on any given night, the competition is hot, and tables are snatched up almost as soon as they become available. Naturally, some customers may be left wondering whether it’s even worth throwing their hat in the ring for this gastronomical Hunger Games, or if they’re better off taking their business to one of the countless other Italian restaurants that proliferate in Boston.
Unfortunately — or perhaps fortunately, depending on how one looks at it — Tonino is worth every minute spent finagling a reservation. The intimate atmosphere means customers receive attentive, personal service, the drinks deliver playful and colorful twists on Italian classics, and every course brings new wonders to the table. One walks out Tonino’s doors already mentally preparing to wade back into the reservation trenches to secure another meal there as soon as possible.
The Tonino experience begins as soon as you step foot inside the restaurant: the small setting creates an intimate, cozy ambiance in which customers could brush elbows with their neighbors, if they feel so inclined. Two lucky guests have the chance to sit at the kitchen-adjacent bar, which offers a glimpse of the culinary wizardry happening behind the scenes. Around the holidays, wreaths and evergreen boughs act as exclamation points that accentuate the restaurant’s daily decor — a simple and elegant nod to the festivity of the season.
The Trevisano Salad offers a light and refreshing note to start the meal. The dish expertly balances the bright greenery of the salad with the brine of pickled onions and tang of the red wine vinaigrette. But the true star of the show are the breadcrumbs on top, which add the perfect textural juxtaposition and satisfying crunch. Unexpectedly savory and undeniably delicious, this salad sets the bar high for the dishes to follow.
Tonino offers Pizza Bianca with three options for dipping sauces: eggplant caponata, ricotta and hot honey, and stracciatella. For daring eaters, the stracciatella is worth the risk: blending the creamy base with tomato relish, aged balsamic, and basil, this dish encourages customers not only to dip, but to dunk. The accompanying bread is warm and charred to perfection, giving it a compelling crunch that compliments the light, smooth stracciatella. That said, the flavors are not overly strong, so those who prefer more of a bite to their seasoning might prefer to sample the other two dip profiles instead.
The Taleggio Cappelletti comes highly recommended — and for good reason. Likened to “Italian soup dumplings” by the server, this pasta dish features eight soft pillows of pasta stuffed with hot, oozing Taleggio cheese. That first flood of warmth is truly unforgettable — diners will be pressed to find pasta this delicious anywhere else in the city. Arranged in a circle and drizzled with aged balsamic, the cappelletti are as pleasing to the eye as they are to the tongue. That said, however, beware the first bite, which can easily scald overzealous eaters if not taken with care.
The Rigatoni Amatriciana is another tempting pasta option, particularly for those who prefer their sauce blushing red. A classic Italian dish, the pasta features guanciale — rich, crispy, cured pork — and tomato sauce, dusted with cheese. The pork adds bursts of salt and savoriness to a dish that delivers a surprisingly sweet flavor palette overall, and the pasta itself arrives perfectly al dente.
It should be strictly forbidden to exit the premises without a closing order of tiramisu. No visit to Tonino is complete without this decadent dish, which overturns all expectations and transports those who indulge in it to tiramisu heaven. Layering mascarpone, lady fingers, amaro, and cocoa, the dish puts a chocolatey spin on traditional tiramisu, but manages to maintain the cloud-like lightness of the dish. The bowl arrives topped with a generous sprinkling of chocolate shavings, which further sweeten this already mouthwatering dessert. Be forewarned, this dish will leave customers daydreaming about it for days to come afterward.
To pair with this delicious array of dishes, Tonino offers a vibrant cocktail and wine list. The spritzes are especially enticing, marrying light bubbles with a variety of summery and playful flavors — from vanilla bean to strawberry rhubarb.
With warm and attentive waitstaff, an intimate atmosphere, a compact but rich menu, and flawless culinary execution, Tonino represents Boston’s restaurant scene at its best. It’s the perfect place for a romantic evening, a long-awaited catch-up with friends, a festive celebration, or simply a satisfying, well-made meal. Go for the pasta, go for the drinks, go for the tiramisu — but whatever brings you to Tonino’s, know that this love letter to Italian home cooking will keep you coming back for years to come.
—Staff writer Makenna J. Walko can be reached at [email protected].
Want to keep up with breaking news? Subscribe to our email newsletter
Have a tip for The Crimson? Share it confidentially