Pizza boasts the title of the most popular food in the United States, and for good reason. Generations of Americans have savored the simple combination of cheese, tomato sauce, and crust, and many institutions have devoted themselves to perfecting the art of the classic dish. In recent years, though, an increasing number of shops employ atypical ingredients and unexpected combinations, rejecting convention to create a distinct product and name for themselves. Sugar’s Hot Pizza & Subs counts itself among those inventive establishments, yet also keeps a foot squarely planted in tradition. It’s a difficult balance to achieve, and because of it, Sugar’s faces an identity crisis.

Located in the Seaport district of Boston, Sugar’s takes full advantage of its picturesque surroundings. It flaunts an outdoor patio complete with string lights overhead. The bright scarlet of the furniture contrasts with the greenery that surrounds it, creating an atmosphere fit for date night.

Stepping inside of Sugar’s, however, the aesthetic changes. The tiled countertop, exposed brick, and red barstools transport one to a diner from times past. The retro aesthetic certainly calls to mind the classic Italian pizza shop. On its own, it would work nicely. The juxtaposition with the modern outdoor area, though, foreshadows the dissonance that bedevils the establishment.

Sugar’s offers a limited yet exotic array of pies to choose from, largely avoiding traditional offerings in favor of original combinations. One such pie is the Green “Marnster,” aptly named after one of Boston’s most iconic installments, the Green Monster wall of Fenway Park. This pizza comes loaded with pesto, tomatoes, red onions, fresh mozzarella cheese, and parmesan. The slice overall is creative, with flavors that blend well together to please the palate. A touch more seasoning would pleasantly put this dish over the edge.

A lack of seasoning is, regrettably, a common theme of Sugar’s pizzas. They offer inventive pies that sound enticing — and are indeed quite good — but fall slightly flat. A bit more salt or other spices would awaken the flavors that lie somewhat dormant. The vodka chicken pizza, for example, comes with juicy pieces of chicken and vodka sauce drizzled atop. Unfortunately, it does not quite pack the punch that one desires from a vodka sauce, preventing the pizza from fully reaching its potential.

On a similar note, the self-titled “Sugar’s” pizza delivers less than one might expect from an eponymous pie. The combination of burrata, basil, and parmesan is less dreamy than one might think. Instead, the result is a warm pie inexplicably covered in hunks of soft refrigerated cheese, creating a thoroughly dichotomous sensation.

The S.O.P — sausage, onions, and peppers — pizza offers a return to some more traditional fare. It’s classic pizza done right, if not particularly inspiring. The sausage lacks the spicy punch expected, but it is nonetheless a thoroughly enjoyable slice.

Despite its shortcomings, Sugar’s does several things right. The crown jewel of the establishment is their complete mastery of the crust. To say that Sugar’s crust is good is a heinous understatement. It is quite simply divine, and a sublime example of what a New York-style thin crust should be. Oftentimes, New York crusts lean limp and soggy, and any New Yorker knows the challenge of attempting to place the tip of a sagging slice, falling under the weight of its toppings, in your mouth. Sugar’s resiliently achieves a crispy thin crust with enough heft to support its toppings. The sublime golden-brown color and the puffy outer ring indicates a mastery of the vehicle of the pie.

Sugar’s gets other pizza staples right as well. The red sauce is flavorful and generously applied, and the cheese is perfectly melted and evenly distributed. Service is also simple yet effective. One orders at the counter, and less than ten minutes later your food is brought out, piping hot, on archetypical paper plates. While the price of $5.95 may scare some buyers off, it’s actually quite reasonable given the massive sizes of the slices and the generous toppings provided.

Sugar’s has worked towards creating a unique experience in a typical pizza shop. Through decor and aesthetics, they give a respectful nod to tradition, yet also push the envelope with their modern and unconventional combinations, attempting to situate themselves squarely in the future of pizza. Their success in doing so is mixed. Mastery of the basics of crust, sauce, and cheese is evident, yet their unique inventions fall slightly short. Flavor must be improved upon, but it’s evident that they have the ability to do so. If it happens, Sugar’s will be one of Boston’s eminent shops.