Advertisement
Arts

Liars Review: Boston’s Quirkiest Bistro

Chef Paul Butler — 4.5 stars


The relative simplicity of the restaurant is mitigated by the bar and open-view kitchen, which provide a warm, bustling feel.
The relative simplicity of the restaurant is mitigated by the bar and open-view kitchen, which provide a warm, bustling feel. | By Courtesy of Julia S. Goldenberg
By Julia S. Goldenberg, Contributing Writer

Nestled alongside a salon and a smoke shop, Liars — at least from the outside — looks relatively mundane. Inside, it’s anything but. Fun, fresh, and funky, Liars is well on its way to cementing itself as Boston’s newest culinary cornerstone.

Upon arrival, the restaurant seems a little austere. The plain white walls could do with some personality, which may just be symptomatic of the restaurant’s relative youth; Liars opened this August. The relative simplicity of the restaurant is mitigated by the bar and open-view kitchen, which provide a warm, bustling feel. The subtle music is fun and energetic without being intrusive.

Liars opens strong with an exceptional roundup of appetizers. The waitress’ recommendation of the Coca Cola braised chicken wing terrine was incredible. The terrine was smokey, reminiscent of barbeque, with a lingering sweetness. Its gelatinous texture paired perfectly with ribbons of carrot that added a much-needed crunch and a bright pop of freshness. The dish perfectly encapsulates Liars’ ethos — putting a unique twist on familiar tastes. The cold tomato somen, a dish of ultra-thin noodles, provided a fantastic follow up from the meat-heavy starter: It was light, fresh, and crisp, loaded with tomatoes in a sweet and tart broth. The noodles themselves were perfectly chewy and delicious, colored with light pinks and greens that made the somen a visual stunner.

The starters were accompanied by one of Liar’s two mocktails: the non-alcoholic bubbly. Liars is known for their playful take on their drinks — but after seeing alcoholic drinks come in tall, elaborately-festooned glasses featuring squirt guns, it was a slight letdown that the non-alcoholic bubbly came in a plain glass with no decoration. The bubbly is also priced at $12, which is a large cost for a small, underwhelming drink. Its opening taste was almost reminiscent of apple cider vinegar, with a sour tang that moves into the realm of the unpleasant before mellowing out into an earthy, fruity flavor.

However, Liars makes up for their relatively unimpressive mocktails with an absolute showstopper. The beef tongue with peppers and cheese was undeniably the highlight of the evening. Sizzling on a cast-iron plate, covered in melted cheese and green peppers, the tongue was melt-in-your-mouth tender. The rich, fatty beef paired perfectly with the crisp, slightly-charred bell peppers. A slightly bitter aftertaste was the only sign that this dish was not a more traditional — but still exceptional — steak and cheese fajita. The only miss was the recommended pairing of mixed grain rice with crab fat butter; although good — if not a little crab-heavy — on its own, when mixed with the already complex taste of the beef tongue the dish quickly became overwhelming. The tongue would be better off with plain rice, or with nothing at all, as the base dish hardly needs any accompaniment.

The griddled corn muffin, which came with blueberry ice cream and was priced at $13, was an exceptional finish to an incredible meal. The sweet, delicate ice cream pairs perfectly with the buttery, warm corn muffin. The muffin itself, although simple, is wonderfully executed. Studded with bits of sweet corn and practically dripping in butter, its soft middle and crunchy base was exceptional both alone and alongside the ice cream. The dish is comforting, wholesome, and delicious.

What makes Liars stand out, aside from its food, is its exceptional service. Waiters know the menu well and are able to navigate and give exceptional recommendations. There is an incredible eye to detail in the dining experience: food comes quickly, glasses of water never stay empty, and throughout the staff there is a genuine kindness and willingness to help that elevates the entire dining experience.

Liars is adventurous, creative, and unafraid to be wacky. Their colorful ideas are backed up by incredibly executed dishes, with only a few misses across the board. They put a spin on traditional bistro comfort food in a way that feels genuinely unique, passionate, and inspired. The adventurous, the bold, and anyone who wants to say that they ate tongue and enjoyed it will find a home — and a perfectly delectable meal — at Liars.

Want to keep up with breaking news? Subscribe to our email newsletter

Have a tip for The Crimson? Share it confidentially


See more on: Arts, Culture, Metro Arts

More in Arts


Most Read

Most Read Articles

1
  1. 2
  2. 3
  3. 4
  4. 5
Advertisement