From NYFW: SHAO’s Underworld is Full of Fluidity and Romance

SHAO’s Spring/Summer 2027 New York Fashion Week presentation, “Underworld Royale: Softness in the Shadows,” opened with a scene reminiscent of 1920s Shanghai. Reddish neon lights lit up every few feet of the room and large leafy plants lined the walls, concealing paint chips on grey stone. Waiters glided around the room with small servings of marinated cucumbers and wood ear mushrooms. A dark wooden staircase led to an indoor balcony with auspicious Chinese characters — “Fu” for luck, “Lu” for money, and “Shou” for longevity — written on the railing. The room went still as a spotlight shone on the staircase and a group of formally dressed models slowly descended in single file. As if in a trance, they spread out across the room in their suit jackets and backless gowns. A few models even huddled at a large round table in the center of the room, with their imposing silhouettes casting irregularly shaped shadows on the floor.

Taiwanese-born fashion designer Shao Yang showcased her meticulous tailoring skills through the unconventional draping and cinching of fabric in her collection. In order to blend modernity with her grandparents’ Chinese heritage, Yang deliberately chose to hold her event at the restaurant Chinese Tuxedo on Doyers Street. Located in Chinatown, the restaurant was originally a bi-level Chinese opera house and theatre. Many antique elements were preserved in the architecture, from a tall carved pillar to sand-colored shutters. Upon entering the venue, the audience was instantly transported to a whole other dimension.

As more models entered the dining hall, the overarching underworld theme became increasingly apparent. SHAO implemented an intense yet romantic plotline, transforming their presentation into an immersive theatrical experience. The story centered on a crime boss, her lover, and a young man who caught the lover’s eye. While the crime boss was holding a meeting, the lover and the young man arranged a secret rendezvous. Their affair, however, quickly spiraled out of control when the crime boss discovered the betrayal. Each character’s outfit embodied their personality, complementing the role they played. In particular, the young man who initiated the affair wore a leather jacket made to resemble a dual-tone suit, conveying a rebellious nature hidden beneath his poised and gentlemanly image. Meanwhile, the lover wore an oversized grunge t-shirt on top of silk stockings with garters. The lover matched the young man’s punk aesthetic, yet also had an elegant and seductive aura.

Yang’s collection reflected her training at Parsons School of Design. The garments highlighted her tailoring skills as well as her innovative use of draping techniques. Pieces of fabric came together effortlessly and displayed the designer’s high level of precision. For example, one of the models wore a pearly silk shirt unbuttoned at the chest. The sleeves were scrunched up and bell-shaped yet possessed an architectural quality which allowed the design to maintain its structure. In addition, Yang allowed the shirt’s right lapel to cross over the left, alluding to Hanfu — a form of traditional Chinese attire worn before the Qing dynasty. Yang seamlessly combined the tailoring and construction techniques developed through her training at Parsons with references to Chinese traditions, creating a striking statement piece.

Many pieces in the presentation featured bold silhouettes and vibrant color palettes, emphasizing a sense of gender fluidity as well as SHAO’s playful approach to design. One of the models wore a glen plaid jacket that doubled as a flowing robe. Although the pattern covered her body from head to toe, Yang introduced visual variety through the garment’s asymmetrical drop shoulder effect and androgynous slouchy sleeves. Another memorable look was a satin peacock-blue blouse with a plunging neckline. The unusually saturated hue enhanced its metallic sheen, drawing attention to the fabric’s dynamism in every fold and crease.

Overall, SHAO’s “Underworld Royale” felt less like a fashion presentation and more like a scene from an arthouse film. The atmospheric lighting, saturated colors, and theme of unattainable romance created a dreamlike, melancholic vision of Shanghai. Yang seamlessly wove her grandparents’ Chinese heritage into sharply tailored silhouettes, constructing an effortlessly cool yet dramatic underworld narrative. SHAO’s collection transcended conventional ideas of who can wear what — each piece was an expression of individuality and confidence. The wardrobe was simultaneously intimidating and alluring, commanding attention yet providing the wearer with a sense of comfort and fluidity.

—Staff Writer Sophie Tung can be reached at [email protected].