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Ogawa Coffee Review: Impeccable Craft, Hard-to-Swallow Price

3.5 Stars


Ogawa Coffee's emphasis on the coffeemakers’ craft carries through to the drinks.
Ogawa Coffee's emphasis on the coffeemakers’ craft carries through to the drinks. | By Courtesy of Maya Y. Koreth
By Maya Y. Koreth, Crimson Staff Writer

Tucked behind the Old South Meeting House, Ogawa Coffee is easy to miss in the bustle of Downtown Crossing. It is the first U.S. outpost of a Kyoto-based coffee company founded in 1952, and it has operated at 10 Milk St. since opening in 2015. Just a short Red Line ride from Harvard Square, it offers an easy escape from the Yard for anyone willing to trade Cambridge’s coffee shops for a taste of Japan.

In online images, Ogawa looks polished to the point of corporate. The photos suggest a sleek, uniform space that wouldn’t feel out of place in an airport terminal. Stepping inside, however, remedies that impression. Exposed pipes run across the ceiling, lending the room a rustic, industrial warmth that the photos do not capture.

The cafe is also surprisingly clever about its small blueprint. In a downtown neighborhood where square footage is precious, Ogawa makes use of every inch. Elevated steps double as benches, turning the room’s vertical space into seating. Stools line the counter, giving solo visitors a front-row view of the baristas at work. That arrangement is no accident: The tiered seating was designed so the cafe could double as a training center, with a full view of the employees. It is by no means a place to spread out with a laptop and a stack of readings, but it is a good one for sipping slowly and people-watching.

That emphasis on the coffeemakers’ craft carries through to the drinks. Ogawa opened its Boston doors under the guidance of 2010 World Latte Art Champion Haruna Murayama, who relocated from Japan to lead barista training, and the shop’s pedigree shows. The hot matcha latte arrived crowned with beautiful latte art atop the dark green tea. The drink itself tasted authentic, true to the slightly bitter taste of matcha leaves rather than the sugary, milk-forward versions found in many American cafes. It is a rare treat for a matcha to taste like tea first and dessert second.

Then came the bill: $8.50. It is hard to look at such a carefully made drink and call it a bad product, but it is just as hard to justify the price. Quality and authenticity matter, but they don’t fully explain a figure that approaches the cost of a small meal. The latte art is lovely, yet it disappears within a few sips. The drink felt like a one-time indulgence, which is not inherently bad but would still make the average customer think twice before ordering.

Ogawa’s menu extends well beyond matcha, with toasts, pastries, and seasonal drinks, though prices run similarly high. Visitors should come prepared to pay for the experience as much as the beverage. The cafe’s location near the Freedom Trail and downtown offices means it draws a steady mix of tourists and workers, and the prices reflect that clientele more than the student wallet.

Still, there is a lot to like here. The atmosphere is distinctive, the space is thoughtfully designed, and the craftsmanship in the cup is evident. Ogawa doesn’t feel like a franchise outpost, even though it technically is one. It feels like a small piece of Kyoto’s cafe culture transplanted to Milk Street.

For Harvard students, Ogawa is best saved for a special occasion: a day trip downtown, a visit from family, or a reward after a brutal stretch of midterms. Go for the ambiance and the artistry, and bring a friend to split the bill.

—Staff writer Maya Y. Koreth can be reached at [email protected].

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