On a cold, snowy, and gray winter evening in Cambridge, Moona reveals itself as a warm and welcoming oasis: A place where tradition meets innovation, where food meets flavor. Having just opened in early January, the Central Square location is owner Mohamad El Zein’s second iteration of the popular, critically acclaimed Moona in Inman Square. Moona’s website describes the “moona,” which essentially means “pantry” in English, as a “bountiful harvest” prepared during the winter months.

It’s a perfect way to describe the lavish assortment of dishes and flavors that define Moona’s mezze, Levantine-inspired menu. Traditional spreads such as muhammara and baba ganouj give way to creative takes on classic dishes like hot pepper labneh and moulard duck breast bazargan. The atmosphere was casual but sophisticated, like an elevated neighborhood favorite that doesn’t take itself too seriously while still knowing its value.

Beginning with the clear standout on the menu, the hummus bil fitr, a hummus with mushrooms and green shatta, so delicious that a Moona waiter claimed it was the reason they began working there. It soon became clear why the waiter made this decision. The hummus itself was nothing truly spectacular; it was everything that a good hummus should be — light, airy, and flavorful, with the perfect balance of richness and acidity. The real “wow” factor, however, came from the sauteed mushrooms themselves. They were beautifully spiced and an incredible complement to the dish. The very spicy green shatta — a herb based condiment typical of the region — delicately incorporated into the mushrooms, elevated the dish from very good to simply divine.

Because the varieties of chickpea dishes in Middle Eastern cuisine are essentially endless, we ordered another classic, the falafel. Unfortunately, the falafel itself didn’t quite live up to what it could be. While the texture, crunchy on the outside, soft and fluffy on the inside, was culinary precision at its finest, the falafel was under-spiced and rather uninteresting. It required a hefty dose of garlic toum — so exceptional it can arguably be eaten on its own — and a generous scoop of the earlier hummus to transform it into a dish to keep coming back to.

The stuffed grape leaves, a traditional Levantine dish, is given a new vision under Moona’s culinary team. Filled with delicate, fragrantly spiced rice, the dolmas were smothered in soft, marinated beef cheek and crunchy almonds. While each individual ingredient was good on its own, their combination was problematic. The beef cheek, notably, was far too saccharine and, when combined with the punchy, citrusy dolma filling, the palate became overwhelmed rather than pleasured.

The whole seabass, our main course, was the special of the day — a relatively exclusive fish, one of just five prepared for the evening. Perhaps that pretext set expectations too high. The seabass, though exceptionally fresh and beautifully prepared and presented, needed far more flavor. The absence of an olive oil and lemon dressing or some other saucy complement to the platter rendered it a well-executed dish lacking the culinary creativity Moona has proved itself immensely capable of.

The dirty rice, a long-grain rice with raisins, almonds, and other spices, redeemed the meal tremendously, however. The rice was a welcome delicious explosion in the mouth, texturally complex and flavorfully sophisticated; this rice alone could make a trip in a blizzard compelling.

We ended the meal with the Dark Chocolate Ganache, with dates, Arabic coffee, sesame, and urfa (a Turkish chili pepper). Sesame crackers and bright violet flowers topped the voluminous bowl of chocolate ganache and coffee mousse. The crackers were marvelous, crispy with just the perfect amount of sweetness, and exceptionally delicious when dipped into the fluffy concoction. The chocolate ganache was tasty, but lacked complexity; the salt flakes clustered at the top of the dish should have been more evenly distributed. Yet overall, it was a satisfactory ending to a promising meal.

Moona’s food is undoubtedly lovely, but what defines the experience is the attentiveness of the staff. The waiter was helpful, considerate, and truly wanted to provide an excellent experience. Their knowledge of the menu and thoughtful suggestions were very welcome. At Moona, expect to be treated like royalty. Their guest experiences clearly matter to them.

Levantine cuisine is a hard culinary world to break into. Defined by delicious ingredients and celebrated dishes, it is difficult to create something wonderful and far easier to disappoint. But Moona has something special. Moona shines in its complements to dishes and its beautiful presentations. Focusing on perfecting the core ingredients of the meal would take this restaurant to a new level. Nevertheless, Moona is an exciting addition to Central Square and deserves a visit, and another, and another.

—Staff Writer Caroline J. Rubin can be reached at [email protected].