Everyone has moments where they feel proud of their friends — they got their first paycheck, they graduated from college, or they’re getting married. They take photos and videos of them so they can look back at their achievements. Simultaneously, it is proof that friends were there to support them along their journey. “Marc by Sofia” is exactly that — a fashion designer’s success story through the eyes of his closest friend.

Known for her movies’ soft aesthetics and use of pastels, American filmmaker Sofia Coppola took on the new challenge of making a documentary. Throughout her career, she has made numerous biopics themed around female rebellion such as “Marie Antoinette” and “Priscilla.” However, “Marc by Sofia” features actual interviews between the director and Marc Jacobs, as well as footage from past runway shows back in the ’90s.

The documentary follows Jacobs as he prepares for his Spring 2024 show at New York Fashion Week. Coppola not only gives an exclusive behind-the-scenes perspective, she also expresses a sense of nostalgia for a bygone era in pop culture and haute couture. For example, she includes the iconic “Big Spender” dance sequence from the 1969 film adaptation of “Sweet Charity,” which Jacobs took inspiration from. She then immediately cuts to Jacobs’ team trying out similar hair and makeup styles on the models. There is a perfect blend of spontaneity and cohesion, which is difficult to achieve in an informative piece.

“Marc by Sofia” depicts the designer in his natural habitat. Many of the interviews are held in his home while he wears a bathrobe. Although he is in a casual setting, the way he talks about fashion is not casual at all — his passion for the subject is contagious. One of the rawest, most unedited moments in the documentary is when Jacobs takes a puff from his vape and comments on the human fear of anything natural. Coppola manages to catch him in his most relaxed state and depict him as an amiable and inquisitive artist.

Based on the documentary’s title, audiences know how crucial the alignment of Coppola’s and Jacobs’ artistic vision is to their friendship. While Jacobs strives to secure a spot among the greats, Coppola herself is searching for her place in the film industry. Although she experiences a lot of Jacobs’ creative processes firsthand, she puts the spotlight on him solely, allowing him to tell his own story. In fact, she rarely makes on-screen appearances — we hear her voice in the background sometimes, giving the documentary its endearing and intimate tone.

Due to Coppola’s expertise in cinematography, her documentary is more of a visual snack than a historical report. Much thought is put into every single reference image or video — how Jacobs alludes to Diana Vreeland’s NYC apartment in his set design, Cindy Sherman’s inspirational photography, or the Marc Jacobs Fall 2020 show featuring choreography by Karole Armitage. Coppola illustrates how fashion breaks its own boundaries on a daily basis and gives us a glimpse into Jacobs’ rich worldview as well as his obsession with capturing beauty. Furthermore, she often incorporates personal touches from her other films, such as a girl running in a white dress, reminiscent of Kirsten Dunst in “The Virgin Suicides.” This shot serves as a subtle nod for fans of Coppola’s work.

One downside of Coppola’s use of references is that it limits the documentary’s target audience. In other words, those unfamiliar with ’90s pop culture will likely enjoy “Marc by Sofia” less than those who do. For example, to truly appreciate the power of Jacobs’ fashion on social media, one must first get to know Winona Ryder’s rebellious courtroom style. In addition, the documentary’s nonlinear storytelling might be overstimulating for those who are not fashion enthusiasts — frame after frame of unconventional runway shows and jarring artistic projects is not everyone’s cup of tea.

The most unforgettable part of “Marc by Sofia” is the scenes from Jacobs’ show during his student days. By introducing viewers to the bold silhouettes of his designs and the three patterned sweaters he knit for the Parsons School of Design runway, Coppola sheds light on her friend’s work ethic and ingenuity. Later on, when she resets her focus on the overarching Spring 2024 show, we immediately recognize a sweater of the same shape. This provides an “aha” moment for the audience — runway shows are more impactful when viewers know the story behind each piece of clothing.

Ultimately, “Marc by Sofia” is a visually appealing and unconventional documentary that captures Jacobs’ creative journey through the intimate lens of his close friend. While it does rely heavily on fashion history, the film succeeds as a poetic portrayal of an artist’s persistence and growth over time.

—Staff writer Sophie Tung can be reached at [email protected].