Waverly Kitchen & Bar Review: Aesthetics Over Appetite
Chef Conor Seip — 2 Stars
It appears as if Waverly Kitchen & Bar subscribes to the age-old testament that “phone eats first.” However, they seem to have forgotten that the customer eats, too.
Nestled between the colonial homes in Boston’s Charlestown neighborhood, next to Bunker Hill, Waverly Kitchen & Bar is a top-rated restaurant serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner. In fact, it was recently named on Eater’s “The Best Brunches Around Boston” list. While the service, ambiance, and presentation of the brunch are impeccable, the taste of Waverly Kitchen & Bar’s food is regretfully bland.
The restaurant leans heavily on the historical context of its neighborhood, offering an elevated, colonial New England feel. Thick wood-paneled floor boards lead to a white marble mantel, within which nestles a small fireplace. Rustic, wood-framed mirrors hang behind booth tables, flower baskets hang from the ceilings, and red and pink carnations sit in glass vases upon each table. The decor is beautiful, elegant, and clean.
The environment is also exceptional — lighting and music combine to create an exceedingly comfortable ambiance. Diners can choose between sitting at the bar, in booths, or at small tables beside the white-paneled windows. Natural light pours into the restaurant, combining with the warm lighting to create a cozy yet fresh feel. Soft, instrumental rock plays at a perfect volume to enable comfortable conversation.
However, if the decor and environment are meant to set expectations for the food, their Sunday brunch leaves much to be desired. The brunch menu boasts an intriguing variety of fool’s gold options. The huevos rancheros promised chorizo, queso, heirloom pico, tostada, refried black beans, ranchero sauce, avocado, and eggs fried sunny side up. The chorizo was bland, only saved if drowned in the ranchero sauce of which there was not enough. The avocado was unripe, and the beans lacked texture, resembling a dull, soupy concoction. The eggs cooked sunny side up were underseasoned and undercooked, featuring remnants of the translucent egg whites that should have been fully set. The tostada added to the fragmented feel of the dish — a sum of mediocre components, rather than a cohesive meal.
While the huevos rancheros’ taste was unsatisfactory, the presentation was superb: The bright yellow yolk contrasted with the surrounding white; the tostada was toasted to a perfect golden-brown; the yellow, white, and gold were layered atop bright green avocado and vibrant red cherry tomatoes. Memory of the beautiful presentation, however, dissipated upon taking the first bite of food.
While the griddled banana bread was better, it offered a more mild tale of the huevos rancheros’ deception. Similarly beautiful in presentation, the plate boasted two thick slices of deep golden bread, dusted with white powdered sugar. The banana flavor certainly came through, though not much else was discernible. The addition of a spice like cinnamon, clove, or nutmeg would have added dimension to the bread’s flavor. Moreover, the bread’s griddled preparation did not offer any note-worthy addition to the menu item apart from a catchy name and, perhaps, a crispier edge. The bread was moist though slightly dense. The decadent size of the slices, however, were appreciated — particularly given the bread’s “snacks” designation on the menu.
Accompanying the bread was a small dish of maple-pecan cream cheese that was nothing more than a disappointment. The alleged maple-pecan flavor was known only by the menu description and, apart from a slight tang and texture variation, the spread offered no meaningful addition to the dish — though a stronger nutty flavor would have done well with the banana bread.
The drinks were similarly unsatisfying. The hot mocha was good, though the milk could have been foamed to a thicker consistency, and the coffee was slightly bitter. The cadbury egg cold brew — though an enticing, seasonal menu special — was somehow sour and sickly sweet.
Despite the food, Waverly Kitchen & Bar filled its tables with young families at 8 a.m. on a Sunday — perhaps a testament to its aforementioned ambiance or representative of its service. Patrons received a kind greeting upon entering the restaurant, food was delivered quickly, and waters were filled frequently. Many of the children at Waverly Kitchen & Bar gleefully drew with crayons at the table while their parents quietly chatted.
Ultimately, Waverly Kitchen & Bars’ food pales in comparison to its decor and environment. Taken on its own, the meal is incredibly disappointing — one not worth the price point of $20. However, if one’s priority is good conversation in a pleasant atmosphere, the food can easily fall as background to the larger restaurant experience. It is similarly suitable for those prioritizing Instagrammable over enjoyable food. For content-lovers, it’s a must-go. For foodies, much is left to be desired.
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