From NYFW: VETTESE’s ‘TUTTO PASSA’ Shines in Storytelling but Stumbles in Execution

Disco lights swept across the room, bathing the floors in aquamarine luminescence. From the ceiling, blue and white fixtures, made to look like clouds and seafoam dangled elegantly. The air buzzed with the lively chatter of guests, accompanied by a jazzy tune playing in the background. The music gradually settled into a rhythmic beat and all eyes turned to a figure suddenly walking down the aisle. The clack of her heels aligned with the music, and her outfit commanded the room’s attention. Draped in a creation by designer Kari Vettese, Cici Tamez Lopez embodied the defiant spirit of VETTESE’s NYFW Spring/Summer 2027 collection. Huge round shades concealed her eyes, masking any hint of emotion. From a distance, her look resembled that of an office worker, but as she approached the audience, more and more bizarre details emerged, each seemingly extracted from a Lynchian dream.

Luxury label VETTESE presented “Tutto Passa” at the Spring/Summer 2027 New York Fashion Week on Sept. 12. The show was held at 100 Feast, a Cantonese banquet hall in Chinatown. Known for its wearable and elegant designs, VETTESE has been on a winning streak since its establishment in 2023. The brand has dressed A-list celebrities such as Jennie, Tyla, and Madonna. Most recently, they collaborated with SKIMS to create a collection balancing versatility and the sculptural aspect of shapewear.

According to designer and founder Kari Vettese, “Tutto Passa” — meaning “everything passes”— in Italian, is a spectacle inspired by her Italian-American childhood. Her goal was to extract moments of celebration from her memories and simultaneously express gratitude to her family. From the retro soundtrack to the models’ bombshell hairdos, VETTESE conveyed a sense of nostalgia as well as a childlike whimsy. The brand created tension by toying with opposites: timeless yet futuristic, dramatic yet comfortable enough as loungewear.

Tamez served as both the show’s opener and grand finale. VETTESE’s first design wowed with its ambitious take on the office siren silhouette. Tamez wore a simple white shirt that was unbuttoned and tucked into a high waisted leather skirt. The skirt itself had the shape of a deconstructed tulip — pockets appeared sporadically and a huge snake-like strap elegantly draped over Tamez. This look demonstrated VETTESE’s ability to accentuate the female body while also experimenting with abstract elements.

The finale, on the other hand, felt slightly abrupt because it emphasized story over design. Tamez was cloaked in a long black coat with a massive collar, resembling a vampire’s bathrobe. The sleeves were rolled up and the coat was carelessly cinched around the waist. VETTESE attempted to evoke the image of a child playing dress-up in their parent’s closet, indulging in the fantasy of being a grownup. As a finale piece, the coat echoed the show’s theme of impermanence and tied the entire collection together, yet did not have the intricacy and craft of the other looks. Hence, to those who were not familiar with the concept of “Tutto Passa,” it felt like waiting for a nonexistent climax.

VETTESE explored anachronism in “Tutto Passa” by incorporating historical details into contemporary designs, putting the collection at the forefront of avant-garde. One example was the ivory bustier and skirt set which appeared halfway through the show. The theatrical ruffles alluded to steampunk, while the sheer and flowing skirt created contrast and introduced a soft undertone to the look. Another memorable design was a teal miniskirt paired with a ruched white tube top. The palette and texture of the miniskirt called to mind a children’s toy xylophone, while the top displayed a modern athleticism — one could imagine pop artists dancing in its fluid design.

Although “Tutto Passa” shined in terms of storytelling and cohesion, there were a few looks in the collection that demonstrated less runway potential. A few of the black dresses and oversized suit jackets appeared consecutively and the plainness of their fabric unfortunately rendered the excitement of their sculptural silhouettes rather mundane. Furthermore, the dresses and jackets were often styled with black shades or simple black stiletto heels. The collection lost its magic and intrigue in these looks, which felt wearable but not exactly captivating.

In order to expand the color palette, VETTESE sent the “Boardshort bikinis” — essentially blending swimwear style with increased coverage — onto the runway. The unique teal and carmine hues could not hide the fact that they looked like running shorts from Under Armour. Despite the exquisite tailoring, which complemented the female body, their visual appeal was significantly diminished by the tacky choice of material.

For all its uneven moments, “Tutto Passa” by VETTESE succeeded conceptually — it built a world straight from the designer’s personal time capsule. The designs allowed nostalgia and futurism to share the stage. A few looks got lost in transit and were underwhelming, but, overall, they did not detract from the collection’s strong sense of identity. Ultimately, “Tutto Passa” proves that even when a collection does not always deliver visually, a strong personal narrative can leave a lasting impression.

—Staff Writer Sophie Tung can be reached at [email protected].